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Saturday
8 October to Saturday 15 October 2005
A
week in Blair Atholl near Pitlochry
Perthshire, Scotland
Maps: OS Explorer 386 Pitlochry & Loch Tummel at 1:25000
and OS Explorer 379 Dunkeld, Aberfeldy & Glen Almond at 1:25000
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| Wednesday | Thursday
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River Blaan at The Hermitage, Dunkeld
We
had booked a holiday cottage in the River Tilt holiday park
at Blair Atholl and drove up from our home near York on
Saturday. As we arrived things looked quite promising. The
autumn colours in the trees along the River Tummel valley
were wonderful and our cottage was in a row of four next
door to the heated indoor swimming pool with jacuzzi and
sauna. The village shop was quite handy too to collect my
morning paper and top up our supplies. Perthshire is now
marketed as "Big tree country" and I have a thing
about big trees so we were looking forward to a week of
gentle walks and amazing scenery and possibly a bottle of
wine or two. Our little walks are all taken from a leaflet
called "Pitlochry Walks" published by the Countryside
Ranger Service and Scottish
Natural Heritage. except for the walk at the Hermitage
near Dunkeld.
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The tallest tree in Britain - a Douglas Fir over 64m high
On the crown of the bend on the opposite side of the river is Britain's
tallest tree, a Douglas Fir that stands over 64m high and was planted
in the 1860's. As we stood looking across the pool a solitary salmon
made a huge leap at the falls that enter the pool and a few moments
later a goosander flew upstream to land in the pool. It clearly did
not like the look of us and at once took off again and returned the
way it had come. From the pool we followed the way-marked trail upstream
to Rumbling Bridge at map ref. NN 996411. There was already a large
group of walkers on the bridge having their lunch so we had a good look
at the falls and then continued on the route through the woods to the
A822 at map ref. NN999412.
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Sunday 9 October 2005
The Hemitage, Rumbling Bridge circuit - 7.5km Dunkeld, Perthshire, Scotland
Route Map on 'Landranger'
base from OS Open Space service
Map: OS Explorer 379 Dunkeld, Aberfeldy & Glen Almond at 1:25000
This morning, after a leisurely breakfast we drove to The
Hermitage near Dunkeld, a Scottish National Trust property, and parked
just off the A9 at map ref. NO 012422. The weather was rather showery
but the scenery was still stunning and we set off along one of the way-marked
trails though the wooded valley beside the river Blaan. After about 650m
we came to a large pool at a bend in the river.

The falls at Rumbling Bridge

The falls at Rumbling Bridge
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 Looking across the river Blaan valley from map ref. NO 006411
We crossed
the road and followed a stoney track up the hill for a few
hundred metres to map ref. NO 003407. Here we turned left
following the waymarks across the fields and then through
the woods to emerge back on the A822 at map ref. NO 016418.
We followed the signs down the bank, across a minor road,
and through the woodland back to the river Blaan. The path
brought us back to the pool with the tallest tree and from
there we retraced our steps to the car park. The walk had
been about 7.5km and had taken us almost 3 hours to walk
including numerous stops to admire the scenery. We drove
back to Pitlochry and had a very pleasant late lunch before
returning to our cottage, with the prospect of a swim and
Jacuzzi later.
Below:
The woodland walk back to the river Blaan from the A822
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Below:
This is one of the tallest trees in Britain. It's a Douglas
Fir and is over 64m, growing from the edge of a pool on
a bend in the river where we saw a salmon leaping to make
its way upstream.

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The river Blaan at the Hermitage near Dunkeld
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Monday 10 October 2005
Pitlochry, Loch Faskally circuit - 14km
Pitlochry, Perthshire, Scotland
Route Map on 'Landranger'
base from OS Open Space service
View the route in Google Earth
Map: OS Explorer 386 Pitlochry & Loch Tummel at 1:25000
On Monday morning we decided to walk around Loch Faskally from Pitlochry.
The weather was much the same showery stuff as yesterday but the black
clouds and the patches of bright sunlight produced some lovely effects.
We drove into Pitlochry and walked down to the fish ladder that allows
the salmon to leap up a series of tanks to by-pass the dam at the hydro
electric power station.
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Autumn fungus in the woods
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There
are good way-marked paths around the loch. The official route
includes some road walking, but west of the A9 we followed
an unofficial path along the edge of the loch for almost a
kilometre. The going was getting more difficult and at last
my wife rebelled and we scrambled up the steep bank back on
to the road. The steep scramble brought on a severe cramp
in my calf and I had a very painful hour's walking until it
eventually wore off. It was held to be my own fault for taking
us through such rough terrain! Our return to Pitlochry brought
us to the boat hire depot and cafe on Loch Faskally, where
we stopped for a very nice home made scone and cup of tea
before returning to our cottage and a relaxing swim and pamper
session in the Jacuzzi. The whole walk had been about 14km
and had taken us almost 5 hours to walk including several
refreshment stops. Then back to the cottage for a swim in
the local pool and a spell in the Jacuzzi before our evening
meal.
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 Faskally Loch just before we scrambled up the bank back to the road
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 Monumental entrance arch to the hydro electric power station on Faskally Loch
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 Pedestrian suspension bridge over the river Tummel at map ref. NN 903601
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Above
& below: Falls on the river Tummel

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Path above the river Garry
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River Garry from the B8019 bridge
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A9 bridge over Loch Faskally
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A9 bridge over Loch Faskally
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The southern part of Loch Faskally
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Tuesday 11 October 2005
A tourist drive around the river Tummel in the rain . . .
This morning the weather was quite bad with heavy rain so we decided
to have a tourist drive around the river Tummel area. We also found
a cosy cafe in Aberfeldy which cheered the morning up no end, and in
Tummel Bridge we found the Post Office had diversified into a Post Office
and Cafe, called "Post Taste", where we had our lunch. A pleasant
and quite interesting experience. We visited the ancient yew in the
church yard at Fortingall and then on to Queen's View before returning
to our cottage for a swim in the local pool and a spell in the Jacuzzi
before our evening meal

The remains of an ancient Yew tree in the church yard at
Fortingall, map ref. NN 742470,
reputed to have been the oldest (over 3000 years) and largest
girth (17m) of any tree in Britain.
The short wooden stakes in the background show the outline
of the original trunk but only the opposite edges remain
alive.
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Above
and left: The Queen's View still quite impressive even
though the rain.
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 Falls on a tributary of the Moness Burn near Aberfeldy
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Wednesday am 12 October 2005
The Birks of Aberfeldy circuit - 4km
Map: OS Explorer 379 Dunkeld, Aberfeldy & Glen Almond at 1:25000
This morning we drove to Aberfeldy and parked in the town centre. Our
plan was to walk up through the birch woods ("The
Birks of Aberfeldy" - details of the route) alongside the Moness
Burn to the Moness Falls at map ref. NN 852472. The Rob
Roy Way long distance walk passes through this valley. The Birks
of Aberfeldy were made famous by the verses
of Robert Burns written in 1787. The whole valley was beautiful
with amazing autumn colours and the falls in spectacular form after
the recent rain. We spent a couple of hours walking up to the falls
and back down the other side of the valley and then drove back to our
cottage for some lunch.
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The Falls of Moness near Aberfeldy
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The Moness Burn near Aberfeldy

Autumn colours in the woods above the Moness Burn
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Autumn colours in the woods above the Moness Burn
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Wednesday pm 12 October 2005
After our lunch we walked from our cottage to Diana's Grove
(map ref. NN 865664) at Blair Castle, simply to see the huge trees there,
all around 160 years old. I just like to see big trees - the wild forests
of Britain must have been just as impressive as the modern rain forests
before progress in Britain saw all our ancient forests cut down.
Then
we walked back to the cottage for a swim in the local pool
and a spell in the Jacuzzi before our evening meal

Blair Atholl Castle
 Church yard above Diana's Grove where the Earls of Atholl are buried
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Part of Diana's Grove at Blair Atholl
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Thursday am 13 October 2005
Craigower Walk - 9km
Pitlochry, Perthshire, Scotland
Route Map on 'Landranger'
base from OS Open Space service
View the route in Google Earth
Map: OS Explorer 386 Pitlochry & Loch Tummel at 1:25000
This morning we drove in to Pitlochry and parked in a tiny car park
for walkers on the edge of the golf course at map ref. NN 937593. We
planned to do the "Craigower Walk", about
9km. We followed the track across the golf course to the edge of the
woodland at map ref. NN 932595 and then followed the waymarked path
through the woods and up the hill to the view points on Craigower. We
sat at the view point looking west over Loch Tummel and Schiehallion
to Glen Coe in the far misty distance. As we sat looking at the view
another walker came up the path and went to sit at the other viewpoint
looking out over Pitlochry. After a few minutes we decide to move to
the other viewpoint too as we strolled along the path my wife squeezed
my arm and whispered "He's got no clothes on!" and sure enough
when I looked at the seat ahead the walker was sitting soaking up the
autumn sunshine so we quietly diverted to another point on the edge
of the little plateau and looked at the view over Pitlochry before setting
off down the northern side of the Craigower hill and round to the east
to follow a forest track down to rejoin the path at map ref. NN 928599
and retrace out steps to the golf course. We sat on a seat on the edge
of the golf course with a lovely view across the valley to have our
packed lunch, before returning to the car.

Looking over Pitlochry from the golf course
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Looking over Pitlochry from the golf course
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Starting the climb through the woods to Craigower
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Fly Agaric in the heather on Craigower
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View from Craigower looking west
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View from Craigower looking south over Pitlochry
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View from Craigower looking west
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Red squirrel at Clunie House gardens
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Thursday pm 13 October 2005
After lunch we visited Clunie House gardens near Aberfeldy
(map ref. NN 879513) to see the giant redwood trees and the red squirrels.
Then back to the cottage for a swim and a spell in the Jacuzzi before
our evening meal

Red squirrel in a feed box at Clunie House gardens
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Above, Left and Below: Giant redwood trees (sequoia)
at Clunie House gardens

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Friday am 14 October 2005
Clunie Walk - 11km
Pitlochry, Perthshire, Scotland
Route Map on 'Landranger'
base from OS Open Space service. View the route
in Google Earth
Map: OS Explorer 386 Pitlochry & Loch Tummel at 1:25000
This morning we drove in to Pitlochry and parked in the town centre
to do a walk of about 11km called the "Clunie Walk".
We made our way from the main street down to the river and crossed via
the pedestrian suspension bridge at map ref. NN 940576.
 Pedestrian suspension bridge over the river Tummel at Pitlochry
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Track beside the woods at map ref. NN 935566
We followed a narrow lane up to the A9 Pitlochry bypass and
crossed the A9 dodging the very fast traffic. We followed
the lane on the other side of the main road to the edge
of the forest at map ref. NN 935566. Here we climbed up
the hillside on a footpath for about 1km to map ref. NN
926558 where we turned right on a forest track to the
edge of the forest at map ref. NN 921564 beside a transmitter
mast. We continued across the open moor for about another
kilometer to map ref. NN 914569 where we climbed a few
metres up a steep slope to our right to sit on the rocks
for our packed lunch with a lovely view.
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View from our lunch stop on the rocks
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Above
& Left: Heading back towards Pitlochry after lunch
After lunch we continued on the same path which bent round to our right
and took us down across the moor to the edge of the forest at map ref.
NN 918575. In the forest the path followed the route of a power line
for a few hundred metres before joining a forest track at map ref. NN
925568. We walked along the track for about a kilometre to map ref.
NN 934566 where we rejoined our outward route and retraced our steps
back into Pitlochry.
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 Moorland track heading back to the forest to return to Pitlochry
(Ben Vrackie in the cloud across the valley)
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Friday pm 14 October 2005
Bruar Falls circuit - 4km
Pitlochry, Perthshire, Scotland
Map: OS Explorer 386 Pitlochry & Loch Tummel at 1:25000
This afternoon we planned to walk to the Bruar Falls near Blair Atholl.
It's only about 6km from our cottage in Blair Atholl. There was a large
sign when we got there and to my amazement we found ourselves in the
car park to a large out-of-town shopping mall !!!! My wife claimed to
be as surprised as I was, but I have my doubts. We had a brief look
at a couple of shops. It was all very tastefully done like Harrods,
with prices to match, so we didn't buy much. The walk to the falls was
lovely and the falls themselves were well worth a visit. (Map ref. NN
819669) The falls are about 1km from the road. Near the upper falls
we passed a couple with a very expensive looking camera, and a few hundred
metres further on I spotted a lens filter just lying on the path.

The Falls of Bruar - Upper Falls
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The Falls of Bruar - Lower Falls
The couple were too far away to chase after, but it's
a circular route and they were going the opposite way
round to us, so I just waited until we met them again
lower down the valley. They were very relieved to get
their precious filter back. We returned to our cottage
for our final swim and Jacuzzi at the local pool before
a very nice if a bit expensive meal in a restaurant next
to our cottage (easy walk of about 100m so no worries
about a glass of wine)
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