Bill's gite in the Vezere valley
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A
few days ago I received an e-mail from Bill, a friend
who lives in Alabama. He informed me that he would be
on holiday with two of his friends in a gite in the
Vezere valley from 28 May to 4 June and there was a
spare twin room which my neighbour, Jim, and I could
use if we wished. We did not need to be asked twice
and I booked a couple of cheap flights from Stanstead
to Bergerac. Bill met us at Bergerac on Sunday 29
May and drove us to the gite. We were all set for
a few days walking in the Vezere valley.
We
had a suitably long lunch in a nearby restaurant before
walking a couple of kilometers up the road to the Roche
de St. Christophe. There is a huge ledge half way up
an enormous cliff face. The ledge has been occupied
by people since prehistoric times and the remains of
a medieval settlement are evident. Even today there
are similar houses built into the cliff face in many
places along the Vezere valley.
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Approaching the Roche de St. Christophe
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Ledge on the Roche de St. Christophe occupied since prehistoric
times
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Hoist to lift supplies to the occupied ledge
on the Roche de St. Christophe
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Hoist to lift supplies to the occupied ledge
on the Roche de St. Christophe
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(top)
The next day, Monday 30 May,
we set off from the gite to walk to La Madelaine, another
cliff settlement that had been occupied for thousands
of years. After a good look round the remains of the
settlement we followed a series of woodland tracks and
lanes that brought us to Le Grand Roc, another huge
cliff with a cavern open to visitors. We continued along
the road to the little town of L'Eyzise on the River
Vezere. In the centre of the town is yet another huge
cliff with houses built into the cliff face and still
occupied. We found a little restaurant in the middle
of the town and settled down for a long lunch. A good
deal later we set off up the hill from L'Eyzise towards
Tursac and turned off onto another woodland track that
brought us down into Tursac village. We walked up the
road past a goose farm (I have to say that I do not
like the practice of force feeding geese to fatten their
livers), and back to the gite for another bottle of
wine. We had walked around 23km today.
Left:
Setting out from the gite bound for La Madelaine
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Remains of the cliff settlement at La Madelaine
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Remains of the cliff settlement at La Madelaine
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The River Vezere from La Madelaine
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Tall bamboo grove near Le Grand Roc cavern
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Le
Grand Roc - there is a large cavern open to visitors
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L'Eyzise on the river Vezere with houses built into the
cliff face
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Wild orchids and grasses in the meadows near L'Eyzise
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Woodland track on the way to Tursac
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Very well fed geese await their fate
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Woodland track behind the cliff bordering the river Vezere
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(top)
On Tuesday 31 May, we drove through
L'Eyzise to the car park at Le Grand Roc. From there Bill
led us up a woodland track climbing up through a gap in
the cliffs. There was a lovely view over a series of wooded
hill from the top. We saw some farm workers planting the
tobacco crop and it did seem a bit crazy for us Europeans
to be subsidising our farmers to grow tobacco when there
are strenuous efforts being made to help people escape
their cigarette addiction. Bill's route brought us down
to the bridge over the river Vezere at the edge of L'Eyzise
about 1km from the car park at Le Grand Roc where we had
started. The route had been about 12km. We drove back
into L'Eyzise and settled down for another very long lunch.
It was much hotter today and we spent the late afternoon
and evening back at the gite, which had its own swimming
pool. However someone had told the owner that we wouldn't
be needing it, so it was locked up.
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Wooded
hills of the Vezere valley
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Wild orchid amongst the meadow flowers
Farm workers planting the tobacco crop
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Typical view of farmland from our route along the country
lanes
Another cliff rising out of the farmland
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(top)
This morning, Wednesday 1 June, we
drove to Montignac, a little town on the river Vezere,
where tickets are on sale for the Lascaux II cave. Having
bought our tickets we drove up to the cave and waited
for our allotted tour. The guide was very knowledgeable
and enthusiastic and the commentary was continuous for
the whole hour and a quarter of our visit. The cave paintings
were stunning. I had no idea just how extensive they were.
They covered the whole domed roof of the cavern just like
a fresco in a cathedral. The drawing is very sophisticated
with particular species of animals depicted so accurately
that the exact species can easily be identified. The paintings
in the original Lascaux cave were becoming damaged with
tiny stalactites formed from the damp breath of the many
visitors. It was decided to close the original cave and
make a copy in a nearby cave as exact as possible. This
strategy has worked very well and we saw a faithful reproduction
of the original drawings. After our final long French
lunch Bill drove us to the airport at Bergerac for the
evening flight home. What a brilliant surprise break.
Thanks Bill!
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The little town of Montignac on the river Vezere
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